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The Secret of Onggi Clay — Breathing Vessels
Onggi clay differs significantly from ordinary pottery clay. It is rich in iron oxide, silicon, and aluminum, and contains a unique blend of fine sand. When fired at temperatures between 1100-1200°C, this sand burns away, creating a network of microscopic pores throughout the vessel. As a result, the walls of an onggi pot function as a semi-permeable membrane, typically 0.5 to 1 millimeter thick. This allows air to pass through, supplying essential oxygen to the fermentation microbes within, while also enabling water molecules to slowly evaporate, thus regulating the internal moisture. This unique property is precisely why kimchi ferments so effectively, developing a refreshing, cider-like quality when stored in onggi.
4,000 Years of Korean Pottery Tradition
The tradition of pottery on the Korean Peninsula dates back to the Neolithic Age (BC 8000-2000) with the distinctive comb-patterned pottery (빗살무늬토기). This evolved through various forms: Bronze Age plain pottery (민무늬토기), earthenware (와질토기) during the Three Kingdoms period, stoneware (도질토기) in Unified Silla, and eventually into Goryeo onggi, culminating in Joseon onggi. A pivotal development for onggi occurred in the late Goryeo period, when it became established as large jars specifically designed to meet the growing demand for kimchi and *jang* (fermented paste) fermentation. In Joseon noble households, the *jangdokdae* (fermentation jar platforms) in their courtyards became a symbol of family prestige, with the number and size of onggi serving as a clear measure of wealth.
Onggi vs. Kimchi Refrigerator — A 21st-Century Choice
In 21st-century Korean homes, the presence of onggi has largely diminished. Modern kimchi refrigerators have taken their place, offering precise temperature control designed to mimic the fermentation process traditionally achieved in onggi. However, the true essence of onggi — its ability to facilitate natural fermentation through constant air circulation — remains a quality that no refrigerator can fully replicate. Despite this shift, traditional onggi artisans, such as Kim Chang-sik, continue to preserve this ancient craft. Furthermore, masters of kimchi and *jang* production still exclusively rely on onggi for their creations. Onggi, therefore, is not merely an object of 'efficiency,' but rather an object of profound 'taste.'
Onggi in Hanja — 甕
The Hanja character '甕 (ong)' is formed by combining '雝 (ong, bird)' and '瓦 (wa, tile),' originally signifying a large jar or pot. While its pronunciation is identical to '雍 (yong, harmony)' found in the 'Yongye (雍也篇)' chapter of the Analects of Confucius (논어), they are distinct characters. The 'Tian Dao (天道篇)' chapter of Zhuangzi (장자) offers a profound insight: '知止其所不知, 至矣' — which translates to 'To know what you do not know is the highest wisdom.' The extended period during which kimchi ferments inside an onggi — a process driven by microbial activities that we do not fully comprehend — embodies this very wisdom. Entrusting the fermentation to this unknown is considered the fundamental spirit of Korean fermentation.
