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Maekjeok (貊炙) — Goguryeo's Roast
The 'Dongyi-jeon' (Chapter on Eastern Barbarians) in the *Book of Sui*, completed in 636, states: 'Goguryeo... roasts meat after pre-marinating it (預漬而炙之).' This dish was known as Maekjeok (貊炙). The character Maek (貊) is an ancient Chinese character referring to the Buyeo and Goguryeo kingdoms, while jeok (炙) is an ideogram combining 'fire' (火) and 'meat' (肉), literally depicting a roast. This method of pre-seasoning and grilling meat was not found in contemporary China or Japan, making it a unique culinary technique of Goguryeo. Koreans have thus been familiar with seasoned grilled meat for over 1,500 years.
Joseon's Neobiani — Royal Roast
During the Joseon Dynasty, Neobiani developed as a refined royal court dish. This method involved thinly and broadly slicing sirloin, then marinating it in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, honey, pear juice, garlic, and sesame oil before grilling. Neobiani appears in historical texts such as the *Annals of the Joseon Dynasty* and *Records of Royal Court Cuisine*. It was also a celebratory dish enjoyed by yangban families. The name 'Neobiani' is a pure Korean term meaning 'broadly sliced meat,' derived from 'neobi' (width) and 'ani' (a suffix). It represents a sophisticated evolution of the seasoned grilling tradition inherited from Maekjeok.
1950s-60s — Evolution to Bulgogi
Following the Korean War, the 1950s and 1960s saw the growth of the dining industry, leading to the popularization of Neobiani. It was during this period that the name 'Bulgogi' became firmly established. By 1969, renowned eateries like Hanilkwan, located near Cheonggyecheon Gwangjang Market, became synonymous with Bulgogi. The 1980s brought Bulgogi into homes with the widespread availability of gas stoves, griddles, and electric grills. In the 1990s, Korean food globalization policies facilitated its expansion overseas, solidifying its identity as a distinct Korean seasoned grill, different from Japanese Yakiniku.
Fire in Chinese Characters — 火
The Chinese character '火' (hwa) depicts the shape of flames, making it one of the oldest pictographic characters. In the *I Ching* (Book of Changes), the Li trigram (離卦) represents fire, as expressed in the phrase '離爲火, 爲日, 爲電' — 'Li is fire, is the sun, is lightning.' Fire is a powerful symbol of transformation and change. The 'Chapter on the Nourishment of Life' in *Zhuangzi* states: '指窮於爲薪, 火傳也' — 'Though the finger may be exhausted in gathering firewood, the fire is transmitted.' This metaphor resonates with the 1,500-year history of Korean grilling, where the 'fire' of culinary tradition has been passed down from Maekjeok to Bulgogi.
