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Zhuge Liang's Lu River — Legend of Mandu's Birth
The "Romance of the Three Kingdoms (三國志演義)," Chapter 91, recounts that after Zhuge Liang conquered Nanman (present-day Yunnan Province), his army faced a turbulent Lu River (瀘水) that they could not cross. Local inhabitants suggested offering 49 human heads to the river god to appease it. Zhuge Liang, however, refused to take human lives. Instead, he ordered his men to prepare dough filled with beef and lamb, shaping them to resemble human heads, and offered these as a sacrifice. The river subsequently calmed, allowing his army to pass. This event is said to be the origin of Mandu (饅頭), which literally translates to 'deceptive head' or 'barbarian's head'. Although not a formal historical account, this compelling legend has been preserved and retold for 1800 years.
Mandu Arrives in Goryeo — 13th Century
The earliest record of Mandu in Korea dates back to the late 13th century, during the reign of King Chungnyeol of Goryeo. It appears in the lyrics of the song "Ssanghwajeom," with the line "I went to Ssanghwajeom (雙花店) to buy Ssanghwa." Here, Ssanghwa (雙花) is identified as an older term for Mandu. The dish became established on the Korean Peninsula through cultural exchanges with the Yuan Dynasty (Mongolia). During the subsequent Joseon Dynasty, detailed instructions for making Mandu were documented in significant texts such as "Sanrim Gyeongje" and "Gyuhap Chongseo." Mandu gradually expanded its role, serving as a wartime food during the Imjin War, a celebratory dish for holidays, and eventually an everyday staple.
Mandu of Pyongyang, Kaesong, Seoul — Regional Identity
Korean Mandu displays distinct regional identities across the country. Pyongyang Mandu is known for its large size and thick wrapper, typically filled with kimchi, pork, and tofu, and often served in Tteokguk to create Mandutguk, a hearty dumpling soup. Kaesong Mandu, by contrast, is smaller and more delicately crafted, featuring a notably thin and almost transparent wrapper. Seoul Mandu falls into a medium size category and often incorporates a diverse array of vegetables, similar to Japchae, in its filling. These variations in Mandu culture, particularly between the northern and southern regions of Korea where North Korean influences are stronger in the north, illustrate how 70 years of national division have left an indelible mark even on culinary traditions.
Mandu in Chinese Characters — 饅
The Chinese character "饅 (man)" is composed of the radical "食 (sik)," meaning "to eat," and "曼 (man)," which signifies "long" or "extended." This originally referred to "food rolled into a round shape." The character "頭 (du)" means "head." Therefore, 饅頭 (Mandu) literally translates to "round head-shaped food." As articulated in the "Autumn Floods" chapter of "Zhuangzi (莊子)": "始可與言至理矣" — "Only then can one speak of the highest truth." Mandu is not merely a simple dish; it embodies Zhuge Liang's profound compassion in choosing not to substitute human heads with actual human lives. That very act of mercy is symbolically etched into the name of the food itself.
